Viking invasions, political rebellion, famines and
emigration. Cork, the second city of Ireland, hasn’t got much
in Celtic heritage but has suffered enough scars to merit its own
proud identity. As national prosperity in recent years has attracted
a wealth of arts and culture to the city, it looks to add cultural
hotspot to its list of distinctions. Declared European Capital of
Culture this year, Cork 2005 will do just that.
For its modest size (population. 123,000), the city has an aesthetic
richness owing to its legacy as a one time major trade center. Luckily,
Cork never got commercial enough to dissolve into industrial ugliness,
leaving it charming and accessible today. If the pace of la rentrée
has already overwhelmed you, why not sneak over for a quick weekend?
Revel in Irish hospitality, wander the narrow lanes, scamper over
the attractive bridges along the quays. Still hesitating? For the
chance to experience the city at its most culturally vibrant, time’s
running out!
FRIDAY
On the night of your arrival, embrace the proper spirit with an
evening at the pub. An Spailpín Fánac on 28 South
Main Street has the confused distinction of being “probably
the city’s oldest pub.” Ambiance is relaxed with locals
and internationals mixing it up by the open fire. Join in and surround
yourself with the distinctive singsong accent and some craic. Craic
(pronounced “crack”) is the word here for fun, laughs,
and good times. The pub’s proximity to the Beamish and Crawford
brewery means that your first pint should pay homage to the neighbours.
But out of fairness, make the next one a Murphy’s, the rival
local stout.
SATURDAY
The most interesting way to experience the city is by foot; to
better let the unexpected find you. Built atop marshlands, Cork
was once crisscrossed with waterways rather than streets. Today,
the remaining bridges cross the river Lee that flows around the
island making up the city centre. The action of city centre continues
north across the river to the area around Saint Paul Street and
the Old French Quarter. Named for the 17th century French Huguenots
who settled there after fleeing from persecution, today it is a
lovely area with surprises at every turn: boutiques featuring local
designers, craft shops, galleries, bookstores…
Some of the city’s finest architecture dates from the 18th
century, Cork’s period of mercantile wealth. A can’t-miss
is St. Finbarr’s Cathedral, highly ornamented in early French
gothic style with unique mosaic work, stained glass, and over 1,200
carvings. For more examples of Gothic-style architecture, take a
wide-eyed stroll through the campus of University College Cork.
For a dose of the Victorian era, head for the English Market halfway
down Prince Street. Take in the local dialects and delicacies and
get an aerial view of the action from upstairs.
If your stomach is growling by this point, make the Crawford Municipal
Art Gallery your next stop. In this, one of the country’s
most important museums, you will find one of the city’s most
respected cafés. The “modern Irish bistro” is
part of a new culinary movement: incorporating fresh local ingredients
in Mediterranean style cooking. The menu changes by season but if
you are lucky, their spinach and mushroom pancake with hollandaise
sauce may still be on offer when you stop by. In the afternoon,
a trip to Blarney Castle is only a half hour bus ride away. Depart
from the terminus on Parnell Place. Though it’s one of Ireland’s
oldest and most historic castles complete with gorgeous gardens,
you will mostly likely rush straight for Blarney’s biggest
draw: its rock. It’s cheesy, everyone does it…and you
will too: the steep climb up to the top of the castle to wait your
turn to hang backwards over a long drop to kiss the famous Blarney
Stone. Whew! Legend promises that the kiss will bring you the gift
of eloquence.
Back in town, drop in on a session of The Knitting Map at Saint
Luke’s Hall. The movement of the city (the people, weather...)
brought in by satellite is translated daily into knitting patterns.
You’ll find knitting needles clicking away, recording its
interpretation of the city in a giant piece of communal artwork.
Knitters of all levels and curious observers are welcomed to take
part in spirit of Cork 2005. In the evening, Isaac’s is the
place for international cuisine, beautiful people, and lots of atmosphere.
Set inside a converted warehouse at 48A MacCurtain Street, the restaurant
is reasonably priced and extremely popular. Go ahead and reserve,
it’s worth it (+353 21 450 3805 ).
SUNDAY
Start off with a traditional Irish breakfast at Tony’s Bistro
on 69 North Main Street. This Cork institution is famous for its
breakfast fry-ups (of which many variations are available, even
vegetarian). Fill up because today, you’re heading back in
time to Cobh, just a short train ride away. The picturesque port
town has poignant links to some of the most tragic events of the
area’s history: the Lusitania sinking and as the Titanic’s
last port of call. To provide a sense of context, “The Queenstown
Story” vividly recreates events surrounding the mass emigration
during the period of famine.
If you have time at the end of your final afternoon here, stop
by the Cork City Museum. You will have a rare opportunity to discover
the culture of the Travellers, made famous in the film Snatch. A
minority community indigenous to Ireland, its people has existed
on the margins of Irish society for centuries. The Barrel Top wagon
project marks the first collaboration between the group’s
men and women who traditionally work separately. These men were
responsible for reconstructing the life-sized structure from scratch
while the women researched and decorated the interior. In reviving
many latent aspects of the culture, they create a valuable showcase
both for younger generations and the settled community.
Before heading home, you will probably want an early dinner or
at least afternoon tea. The Gingerbread House on Paul Street has
sandwiches, decadent cakes, and a balcony area upstairs for people
watching. The city of Cork, though small by European standards,
manages to be laidback in attitude yet lively in offerings. Given
the wealth of options, one clearly gets to be choosy. Check out
the schedule of events on the Web at www.WhazOn.com and www.cork2005.ie
to prepare for this autumn’s festivals galore (literature,
performance art, Beamish-sponsored...). Ireland’s second city
is coming into its own and it’s about time because there,
some good craic awaits you.
[originally published in WYN
Magazine / October 2005] |
